Section 7

Paragraphs 28-31


28. Disassembly

Disassemble the stock and hand guards in accordance with FM 23-5.

29. Inspection

a. STOCK. Inspect relief cuts for signs of binding with adjacent assemblies and parts. Important points to be inspected are shown in figures 69 and 70.

b. HAND GUARDS. Inspect the hand guards for defects illustrated in figure 71.

c. CHEEK PAD (U.S. Rifles, Cal. .30, M1C and M1D (Sniper's) (fig. 72). Inspect for condition of leather, ripped stitches, cuts, and abrasions, and check for missing eyelets and tears between holes. Inspect lacing for wear and tears.

30. Maintenance and Repair, Third and Fourth Echelons

a. FITTING NEW STOCK. When fitting a new stock (figs. 69 and 70), check to see that there is no binding or interference with operating parts. Stocks, although made of walnut and treated with linseed oil, sometimes swell, due to moisture, thus causing binding of parts. In such cases relieve binding by using a flat file. Always file towards the sharp edges.

b. DRY WOOD. In dry climates the wooden parts of the rifle apt to dry out and shrink. Occasional applications of raw linseed oil will help keep the wood in condition. Apply oil to the wood only, allowing it to remain a few hours to be absorbed. Then wipe off excess oil and polish the wood with a clean, dry cloth. Be careful not to allow linseed oil to get into crevices of mechanism as it will form a gum as it dries.

c. REAR END OF TRIGGER GROUP NOTCH. Insufficient clearance at this point may interfere with free trigger action. Remove the wood gradually until the trigger action is free.

d. OPERATING ROD CUT. Binding at the operating rod cut may seriously interfere with the function of the rifle. Relieve it where necessary.

e. OPERATING ROD BINDING ON STOCK FERRULE. When binding of the operating rod occurs at the lower band, remedy it by removing a small amount of metal from the stock ferrule. Before correcting, check the alignment of the lower band and check the lower band pin for looseness.


(1) When fitting butt plate (fig. 74) to new stock, make certain it is seated properly to prevent danger of splintering and chipping at points where the wood fails to meet the plate.

(2) Remove the plate by tapping it lightly to loosen it and then prying, being careful not to damage the butt. File the butt enough to seat the plate with a close fit all around. (See fig. 74) Fit it frequently while filing to prevent the removal of too much wood or the forming of an uneven bearing. Use a medium fine, flat file (never curse) and file evenly and smoothly, always filing the butt from heel to toe and stroking forward only. Put a slight chamfer on the sharp edges to prevent picking up splinters while filing.

(3) Where wood protrudes beyond the metal of the butt plate, remove the wood until flush with the plate, using a fine, flat file. If necessary to remove wood from the step of a new style butt, use a file with a safe edge.

(4) If the screw is too loose in the stock, bore the hole out with a drill to about twice the major (outside) diameter of the screw. Fashion, from wood, a cylindrical plug to an easy drive fit and coat it with glue. Clean out the hole thoroughly and drive the plug to the bottom. Be certain the plug does not fit too tightly as it will split the stock. When the glue is dry, cut the plug off and file it flush with the face of the butt. Then drill a hole in the plug with a diameter corresponding to the minor (bottom thread) diameter of the screw, centering it with a punch, and using the butt plate as a template. If the screw crowds the hole too much, remove the screw and ream out the hole slightly.

31. Maintenance and Repair, Fifth Echelon

a. PATCHING STOCKS. The patching of stocks must be performed by skilled workmen, and is authorized in fifth echelon organizations only. See serviceability chart (fig. 23). Reinforce patches with special screws which are machined from brass. (See fig. 75) These are nonrequisitionable and are to be made locally. Drill a No. 46 (0.081 inch) hole to receive the screw. Install screw, gripping it in the chuck of a hand drill. (See fig. 75) Cut off screw and file flush so that no rough edges protrude.

b. STOCK FERRULES. The inside of the stock ferrules (fig. 73) are provided with a rib to insure a positive grip on stock. Do not remove ferrules until they have become loose so as to render them unserviceable. Removing a tight ferrule will strip the mating ribs on the stock.

c. HAND GUARDS. It is not necessary to replace a rear or front hand guard if it is serviceable and holds firmly in position. When replacing a front hand guard, shave the new guard to a tight fit into the ferrule of the lower band. Use improvised tool (fig. 14) to seat the lower band as shown in figure 77. If the rear hand guard is loose, remove and spring the band together slightly (fig. 76), using the improvised tool (fig. 16), and refit the guard. Restake a loose band pin, or replace and stake. If a front hand guard spacer is defective, replace hand guard.

d. CHEEK PAD (U.S. Rifles, Cal. .30, M1C and M1D (Sniper's).

(1) Dried-out leather. When the cheek pad becomes dried-out, as indicated by light cracking or stiffness, clean it thoroughly with saddle soap to help condition the leather. Work a thick lather of soap well into the leather and rise off with clean water. Polish briskly with a dry, clean wiping cloth. If this treatment does not soften the leather, apply a very light coating of Neat's-foot oil.

(2) Tears in lacing holes. Replace cheek pads having tears originating at the lacing holes due to lost eyelets.

(3) Worn or torn lacing. Replace lacing showing signs of excessive wear or if tears are indicated.

[Back to TM 9-1275 "INDEX"]